I have been to several places here in Luzon, ranging from historical structures, nature viewing, and mountain trekking, but one day, an officemate of mine told me, why not arrange for a food tour for a change. Hmm…very true, so the first area that suddenly popped into my mind, without batting an eyelash, was obviously…Pampanga.
What would be greater to start off a first-ever food tour than to “submerge” yourself on various Filipino cuisine and delicacies at the culinary capital of the Philippines, especially during the holiday season.
Our gastronomical “trek” happened last December 14, 2013.
Since some of my friends live in various areas, we all decided to meet up at Eton Centris Commercial Center, located in Quezon Avenue, EDSA, Quezon City, and the van departed before 6:30 AM.
Since this was a food trip, it only meant that the first meal of the day must be done in Pampanga.
Town 1: Angeles City
We arrived at 8:00 AM in Angeles City, Pampanga, and proceeded towards out breakfast venue, which was the Historic Camalig Restaurant, built in 1840 and restored for adaptive use in 1980.
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| Historic Camalig Restaurant (Main Entrance) |
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| Old stuff galore! |
This was a restaurant, reminiscent of the cozy coffeehouses of the 1960’s. Built by Don Ciriaco de Miranda, Angeles First Gobernadorcillo (mayor), and used for storing grains until the early 1960’s, it was restored by the late Mr. Armando L. Nepomuceno. Camalig is the home of Armando’s Pizza, which according to some is “The Pambansang Pizza”.
In order for us not to stuff ourselves this early, we just ordered two 13” of the two best-selling pizzas: (1) Armando’s Best - consisting of pepperoni, ground beef, green peppers, mushrooms, and Canadian bacon at Php 476.00, and (2) Doy’s Kapampangan - consisting of lungganisa (Kapampangan sausage), ebun buru (salted duck egg), onion, & pickle relish at Php 397.00.
While waiting for our orders, we just frolicked around this old joint for some photo shooting with a nostalgic aura, and when we finally tasted their specialties, it was so damn delicious!
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| The Second Floor |
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| Doy's Kapampangan Pizza |
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| Enjoying the Armando's Best Pizza! |
After the hearty morning meal, we went to Nepo Mart for some pasalubong shopping.
We first went to Susie’s Cuisine, the so-called “Best in Pampango Kakanin since 1972”, and bought their specialties such as the Tibok-Tibok, Leche Flan, and Mochi.
The next stop was its neighbor, Rosing’s Pastry Shop, which prides itself of its pastillas.
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| Pasalubong Shopping |
A few walks from Rosing’s was Gill’s Sherbet, a small outlet serving fruit sherbet at only Php 20.00 for a large plastic cup. A good refreshing break indeed for a very hot day!
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| Gill's Sherbet |
We then visited the Museo Ning Angeles building, which was a priceless asset, vintage circa 1920, the edifice is a museum piece by itself, located at the prime Sto. Rosario Historic District across the Holy Rosary Cathedral. This edifice was constructed in 1922 and served as the municipio (town hall) until 1999 after which it was turned over to Kuliat Foundation and converted into what is now the Museo Ning Angeles.
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| Museo Ning Angeles |
When we entered the establishment, there was a decoration at the lobby showcasing the 50th anniversary of the cityhood of Angeles City, which would be celebrated in 2014.
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| Main Lobby |
On the right side, on top of a table, were a Registration Book and a drop box. Every visitor registers then drops cash into the drop box based on the Entrance Fees stated.
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| Entrance Fee Rates |
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| Registration Book |
There were two rooms located at the ground floor. One room contained dioramas depicting various “Kapampangan Traditions” and the other room, which showcased various items related to the history of Angeles City.
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| Dioramas of Kapampangan Traditions |
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| Parada ng mga Parol |
Going up the wooden stairs, we saw the entire second floor, which was dedicated to the "Culinarium", which showcases “Kapampangan culinary art and science through exhibits and cooking demonstrations.”
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| Wooden Stairs |
On display at the Culinarium was a collection of native kitchen tools used in ancient times.
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| The Culinarium |
Also, there is an old window here where you could view the Holy Rosary Parish Church.
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| The view from the window |
Departing from the museum, we photographed ourselves in front of the historic Pamintuan Residence.
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| Pamintuan Residence |
Construction of this house started around 1890 by Don Mariano Pamintuan and Valentina Torres for their son Florentino, Mayor of Angeles, 1900. It became the headquarters of the Revolutionary Army under Gen. Venancio Concepcion in 1898 and Gen. Antonio Luna in 1899. It was in this house that he drew up plans for the defense of Pampanga against the Americans who were poised in San Fernando, Pampanga.
Occupied by Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo and his staff on May 27, 1899. On June 12, 1899, Pres. Aguinaldo ordered a grand parade on the first anniversary of Philippine Independence. Also occupied by Gen. Arthur McArthur and members of his staff in 1901. Served as the home of the Kamikaze pilots in 1944. Bought by the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas in 1981, the house as a donation by the Tablante Family. Restored in 1983 then inaugurated in 1988 as the Regional Office of the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas.
Before leaving Angeles City, we visited the Holy Rosary Parish Church, which was the mother parish of all Angeles parishes.
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| Holy Rosary Parish Church |
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| Inside the Church |
The church was constructed from 1877 to 1896 by the townspeople of Angeles who were made to work under the Spanish government, where all native males, 16-60, were required to perform manual labor for free. From 1899 to 1900, the U.S. Army used the church as a military hospital.
Town 2: Bacolor
With hunger already creeping in our stomachs, we headed to our next town destination for lunch, which was at Apag Marangle, located in Bacolor.
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| Apag Marangle |
Apag Marangle or Hain sa Bukid is a known restaurant that serves authentic Kapampangan dishes on huts situated on top of a 12-hectare man-made lake.
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| Kodakan while waiting for our orders |
We ordered some of their specialties such as the Kalderetang Bibe, Pepalukluk Manuk, and Sisig. Loved the Suam Mais and the Sizzling Balut though. The Buko Pandan Juice was great!
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| Sizzling Balut |
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| Kalderetang Bibe |
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| Sizzling Sisig |
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| Suam Mais |
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| Nasing Marangle |
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| Pepalukluk Manuk |
Eating beside your companions on one huge banana leaf placemat was one unique experience.
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| Pre-Lunch Pictorial |
We then headed to the San Guillermo Church.
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| San Guillermo Church |
The first church was constructed by the Augustinian friars in 1576 on the lot of Don Guillermo Manabat, a rich landlord believed to be the founder of Bacolor. An earthquake destroyed the edifice and a new church was erected by Fr. Manuel Diaz in 1897. In spite of the 1991 eruption of Mount Pinatubo which half-buried the church on October 1, 1995, the structure is still being used as place of worship. It was already a world renowned tourist destination prior to the lahar tragedies; now more tourists flock to the church which remaining features are being preserved.
As we entered the church, there was a certain section called the San Guillermo Parish Archives and Museum, which housed several artifacts. When the lahar flow settled down, the townsmen of Bacolor painstakingly excavated and salvaged the historical items. Photos and paintings depicting the devastation were also on display.
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| San Guillermo Parish Archives and Museum |
Town 3: Guagua
At 2:15 PM, we arrived at the so-called “Sistine Chapel of the Philippines”.
The 1607 Santiago Apostol Parish Church, commonly known as Betis Church is a Baroque (heritage) Church, located in Guagua, Pampanga (Betis Area). It is a Spanish-era church declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines and the NCCA (under R.A. 4896 as amended by P.D. 374 and R.A. 8492), on November 5, 2001 (one of only 26 churches in the country bestowed that honor). It is part of the Ecclesiastical Provinces of the Archdiocese of San Fernando. In 2009, the National Museum installed a marker of its 2005 Proclamation.
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| Santiago Apostol Parish Church |
The main attraction is the original ceiling mural done by the famous painter Simon Flores (1839-1904).
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| Ceiling Mural |
Walking towards the main altar (retablo), you could fathom the ornate carvings and saints peering out of their niches like ancient dolls.
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| Main Altar |
Of all the churches I have been so far, this establishment had the strictest guidelines being implemented such as wearing the appropriate dress code whether there was an ongoing mass or just visiting the place. Also, flash photography was prohibited to help preserve the structures. Any violation of their rules would mean literally coaxing the person concerned out of the premises by the security guard.
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| Dress Code Guidelines |
Another church in Guagua was the 1590 Heritage Immaculate Conception Church.
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| Immaculate Conception Church |
The first church edifice was constructed in 1587 but was unfortunately razed by fire. The current Church structure was constructed in 1772 under the administration of the Augustinians. The Church was greatly improved in 1862 until 1870. The Cathedral-type church was located immediately adjacent to the Guagua Municipal Building and houses the Cardinal Santos Catholic Center and the Immaculate Conception Parochial School.
Town 4: San Fernando
To finally cap off the day-long trip, we headed to the town dubbed as the Christmas Capital of the Philippines due to its annual hosting of the Giant Lantern Festival.
We first dropped by at a Bataan Death March stone marker, which was constructed in commemoration of the heroism and greatness of the Filipino fighters during the Japanese occupation in 1942.
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| Bataan Death March Stone Marker |
A few steps away from the marker was the historical Old San Fernando Train Station.
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| Old San Fernando Train Station |
The San Fernando Train Station is a historical landmark in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga. Inaugurated by Governor-General Eulogio Despujol and Bernardino Nozaleda, Archbishop of Manila, on February 23, 1892. Jose P. Rizal debarked from the station on June 27, 1892 and again the next day en route to Bacolor. During the Death March in April 1942, it was the ending point of the 102-km Bataan Death March, from which Filipino and American prisoners-of-war were carted to Capas, Tarlac en route to their final destination, Camp O’Donnell.
For its security and protection from vandals, the place was not open to the public, but fortunately, the caretaker, Mr. Fernando V. Sanchez Jr., was there to provide us some historical information about the structure as well as opening the gates so we could view what was inside the station.
All you could see inside were statues depicting the Japanese Occupation, Jose Rizal sitting on a bench, and Ninoy & Cory Aquino.
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| Various Statues |
Before departing the establishment, we all posed beside a 102-km Bataan Death March marker.
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| 102-km Bataan Death March Marker |
During the Death March in April 1942, it was the ending point of the 102-km Bataan Death March, from which Filipino and American prisoners-of-war were carted to Capas, Tarlac en route to their final destination, Camp O’Donnell.
Since some of us were really hell-bent on purchasing lanterns straight from the “capital” itself due to their lower pricing as compared to outlets in Metro Manila, we visited the RolRen’s Lanterns and General Merchandise outlet, which was one of the top companies directly hired or outsourced by local government units making Christmases more colorful in the different cities of Metro Manila.
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| RolRen's Lanterns and General Merchandise |
Our last stop was at Robinson’s Starmills, the official site of the Giant Lantern Festival, which was actually scheduled to happen during our trip…suwerte!
It is an annual December festival held on a Saturday before Christmas Eve in the City of San Fernando, which is a product of the combined efforts of each barangay in the town.
This event featured the biggest and most colorful lanterns which were made by the different barangays.
These eccentrically designed lanterns, measured approximately 20 feet in diameter, were also equipped with lights which grooves in time with the music.
Since we were all first-timers, we were all just curious on why thousands of people flock to this festival to witness this annual event.
This event may be open to the public, but for security and safety purposes, free tickets were given on a first come-first served basis in order to limit the number of well-wishers who would be attending. The number of tickets was based on the seating capacity of the rented venue located outside the mall. Non-ticket holders could still watch the show, but they should all be standing at the back portion only.
The spectacle started at around 7:30 PM after waiting for more than an hour of the agreed event schedule (Filipino time talaga geeeez!).
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| Giant Lantern Festival |
We should have eaten dinner at a unique San Fernando restaurant, but due to the horrendous traffic surrounding the area, we left the place and just ate at an outlet along NLEX.
This was my first food trip and it was a huge success.
A whole day of fun at the culinary capital of the nation during the Yuletide season…what more can you ask for?
Explore Pinas!
