My Byaheng Bonifacio (Part 1 of 2)

Way back May 2011, the Department of Tourism (DOT) National Parks Development Committee, Heritage Conservation Society, National Historical Commission of the Philippines, the Intramuros Administration, and Cebu Pacific, launched the “Lakbay Jose Rizal @150” project, a tourism heritage promotional campaign centered on Jose Rizal in commemoration of his 150^th birthday. This project would encourage any local or foreign tourist to visit 27 sites in the Philippines that were connected to Rizal’s life based on a brochure passport given for free, wherein it contains all the sites, and for each site visited, a corresponding site stamp will be embedded on it for evidence sakes, and for the first 100 tourists to visit all those sites from June 19, 2011 to June 19, 2012, a token and certificate will be given by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP).

Due to my overwhelming interest in this unique type of pilgrimage to learn more about our national hero as well as explore the country further, I joined this undertaking without batting an eyelash. Unfortunately, as of April 2013, which was way beyond the end of that project, I could only finish up to 16 sites, but the experience was still great, and regardless of the expiration of that project, in time, I am still hell-bent on completing my Rizal passport.

Last March 2013, my dad chanced upon an article entitled “Biyaheng Bonifacio: A Hero’s journey” in the Starweek magazine dated March 17, 2013, with Filipino sportsman-businessman Mikee Romero on the cover. 

Starweek (March 17, 2013 issue)

When I read it and got the knowledge that the DOT, in partnership with the NHCP, recently launched the “Biyaheng Bonifacio: Biyaheng Bayani ng Bayan,” another tourism heritage promotional campaign that seek to heighten the interest of the public about the revolutionary hero, Andres Bonifacio, who will be celebrating his 150^th birth anniversary on November 30, 2013, an eye-popping excitement filled me up because this one is definitely easier to complete.

Unlike the Rizal project, which entailed more than 20 sites from Luzon down to Mindanao, this undertaking would only cover certain Luzon areas, ranging from several sites in Metro Manila and Cavite, as well as a cave in the province of Rizal. Also, in this new endeavor,for each venue visited, the participant must take a photo of himself within that site as evidence, and paste the photos on the free “Byaheng Bonifacio”brochure, which is only available at the main office of the DOT and NHCP.

The "Byaheng Bonifacio" brochure

According to the organizers, this Bonifacio project seeks to encourage the public, particularly the youth, to rediscover and revisit 16 sites in Luzon associated with the life of the working-class hero and promote domestic tourism at the same time.

As a reward, the first 100 participants to complete the trek will receive a token and a “Biyaheng Bonifacio: Biyaheng Bayani ng Bayan” certificate which they can claim at the office of the Historic Sites and Education Division of the NHCP located along T.M. Kalaw Street in Ermita, Manila.

During the first week of April, a weekday, I asked a big favor from my retired mom, and that was to drop by at the DOT main office to secure me a free brochure so I could start the trek, since, as we all know, government offices are only available during weekdays. I requested more than a piece so I could give the others to my friends, who might be interested to experience the “byahe”.

One thing’s for sure, each tourist needs a photographer who would also be interested in this unique undertaking....and fortunately, I got the right people for the “job”...and I am eternally grateful for what they have contributed to my trek.

Day 1: April 6, 2013 (Saturday)

My mom and I both decided to go to Tutuban, Divisoria, in Manila, so she could buy some affordable stuff there,and, for me, a grand opportunity to be photographed on two of the sites mentioned in the brochure.

After a jeepney ride from my residence in Malabon towards Divisoria, we rode a pedicab going to the K.K.K. Foundation Site, the place where the KKK was founded in July 7, 1892, at the corner of Elcano Street and Recto, and after that, we proceeded to the 11/88 and 168 malls, and then went to the Bonifacio Monument situated near Tutuban Mall, which commemorates the Birthplace of Andres Bonifacio who was born in Tutuban, Tondo on November 30, 1863.

SITE 1: K.K.K. Foundation Site (Recto, Manila)

SITE 2: Bonifacio Monument (Tutuban, Manila)

Day 2: April 7, 2013 (Sunday)

Days before April 6, I found out that one of my former officemates, Joylyn Alabastro, was very much interested to also visit the Bonifacio-related sites after I explained to her the mechanics of the project.

Since the rainy season has not yet started, I decided that the next sites to go to would be the farthest areas,which was the northwestern part of Cavite (Maragondon, Naic, Rosario, and Noveleta).

We started by commuting towards the Lawton area in Manila to catch a bus that would hopefully pass by the town of Maragondon. Unfortunately, we alighted at a certain part of Governor’s Drive,and the bus conductor told us that the town was just nearby, so we had a short trudge. The bus fare from Manila to Maragondon was Php88.00.

Even though some sites were not included in the brochure, since they were not connected to Bonifacio’s life, we still visited those places, ika nga, andun kana, might as well go to the other major spots that you could spot in the area.

Our first stop was the Our Lady of the Assumption Church, which was built by the Jesuits in 1618, and right next to it was the Maragondon Parochial School.

A “few” walks from that area, we saw the Bonifacio Trial House along Colonel Riel Street. This was the place where the Bonifacio brothers,Andres and Procopio, were judged with the felony treason and sedition on May 4,1897, and were sentenced to death on May 6, 1897. It is now a museum containing some items from Bonifacio, such as the bolo that he used during the uprising. The ground floor contains old photos depicting some aspects of Bonifacio’s life as well as the display of the evolution of the Philippine flag, from the Flag of the Revolution down to the present. As you climb the wooden stairs, you could now view the centerpiece of the house, which is a life-size diorama of the trial scene. 
 

SITE 3: Bonifacio Trial House (Maragondon, Cavite)

After leaving the trial house, we asked some folks outside how to go to Mount Nagpatong in the Maragondon mountains, particularly the place historians believed to be the site where the Bonifacio brothers were executed on May 10, 1897.

They told us to walk to a certain narrow area and then cross the very long Pinagsanhan-Maragondon Hanging Bridge. We boarded a tricycle parked a few meters after the Bridge and we were off to the execution site. It was a long and bumpy ride on a super hot day, wherein we even stopped by a sari-sari store along the way just to buy softdrinks. As we headed towards the site, we were greeted by a large gate made of several bamboo rods. According to the driver, its purpose was to prevent cows from escaping the area’s vicinity.  

In order to enter the gate, the driver alighted from the tricycle and moved each bamboo rod on a certain direction so that we could enter, and after we entered, he turned the sticks to its original placements in the gate.

At this point, you might have thought that we were already at the target site..hell no.

We continued our journey through bumpy roads anew, and as the pavement suddenly smoothened out, it meant that we were already near our destination.

Reaching the black steel gate of the site, with a “BONIFACIO SHRINE AND ECO-TOURISM PARK” painted on a placard, mounted on the grills, we paid the environmental fee worth Php20.00 per head. The Execution Site was built to commemorate the great courage Andres Bonifacio showed for the Filipinos to achieve the sought freedom. Its walls have brass sculptures depicting the bravery of the father of the Katipunan.

SITE 4: Execution Site (Maragondon, Cavite)

While on our way back to where we rode the tricycle, we stopped by once more at the same store where we bought softdrinks, and yes, we bought another round due to the sweltering heat. While enjoying our refreshment, we paid the driver Php300.00 as payment going from the town of Maragondon to Mount Nagpatong and back. While asking him how to commute via bus or jeep going to our next destination, Naic, he told us that he could still bring us there for Php150.00, and we agreed, so off we go to the town of Naic.

Arriving at the said town, we asked around where we could find the Casa Hacienda de Naic. Funny thing about this part is that, most of the folks do not know the place, despite showing them a picture of the site to hopefully refresh their minds. After circling around the area for several minutes, we found our target destination, which was just beside the Immaculate Conception Parish Church, established in 1796 and constructed by the Dominicans following the Neo-Gothic style – the only one in Cavite.

SITE 5: Casa Hacienda de Naic (Naic, Cavite)

 
Presently the Naic Elementary School, the building, which was constructed in the early 1800’s, was where Bonifacio stayed after the Tejeros Convention and held the Naic Military agreement. It was also the place where he and Procopio were imprisoned on April 29, 1897, and the jail, which was just a super small room under the stairs, can be visited by tourists.

As hunger struck in, hoping to find a unique restaurant to eat lunch in the area which had air-conditioning, we ended up in only one outlet which had that “important“ feature, Jollibee hahaha.....grrrrrrrr.

After riding a tricycle, for Php25.00, to where the Rosario-bound buses were located, we headed off to the Rosario area, paid the conductor Php50.00, and alighted at the intersection of the Antero Soriano Highway and General Trias Drive.

We arrived at the Tejeros Convention Site, which was near the boundary marker of General Trias and Rosario, after walking for around 10-15 minutes from the intersection under the scorching heat of the sun.We thought it was near so we did not plan to commute (wrong decision...argh!).

 

SITE 6: Tejeros Convention Site (Rosario, Cavite)

Anyway, this venue was where the Tejeros Convention (also referred to as Tejeros Congress or Tejeros Assembly), was held on March 22, 1897. It was the meeting that brought together the members of both the Magdalo and Magdiwang factions of the Katipunan. This was considered as the first Presidential and Vice Presidential election in the history of the Philippines. This site was also said to be where the Armed Forces of the Philippines was founded.

We then rode a tricycle going to Noveleta, worth Php50.00, where our last venue for the day was located. Our ride stopped at the Noveleta Municipal Hall, wherein we asked some folks where the historical Noveleta Tribunal was housed, and alas, it was just a few walks away.

SITE 7: Noveleta Tribunal (Noveleta, Cavite)

 
In here, Andres Bonifacio, Pio Valenzuela, Emilio Jacinto, and Pantaleon Torres established a provincial council of the Katipunan, known as Magdiwang.

The day closed its curtains via a Manila-bound bus towards the LRT Quirino station.


Day 3: April 9, 2013 (Tuesday)

This would be our second trip going to the Cavite Province anew, but the route would be different, which was now towards the central part and back to the northern part, Indang and Imus to be specific.

The trip to Indang started with an LRT ride going to the Baclaran station. Since we were not well-versed with the area, we asked around where we could find the buses going to Indang. They told us that it was near and walking distance lang daw, so we did just that...malayo din pala going to the Roxas Boulevard overpass, where you could locate the said buses.

Before the bus turned right to the Alfonso-Indang Road, coming from the Indang-Trece Martires Road, we alighted the vehicle and rode a tricycle going to the Pinagbarilan Shrine at Barangay Limbon, Indang.

SITE 8: Pinagbarilan Shrine (Indang, Cavite)

On April 28,1897, Bonifacio’s troops assigned to guard the fort were surprised by the sudden assault by Aguinaldo's men. Ciriaco Bonifacio was killed and his troops captured. Bonifacio Supremo was shot with a revolver by Agapito Bonzon and was stabbed on the right side of the neck by Ignacio Pawa.

From the shrine, we once again hopped on a tricycle, proceeding to the Indang town proper, wherein, we visited the 18^thcentury-built St. Gregory the Great Parish Church and the Indang Municipal Hall.

Right beside the Municipal Hall compound were the Lawton-bound buses that would pass by the Imus area for our next destination.

We alighted the bus at the intersection of the Emilio Aguinaldo highway and Nueno Avenue at Imus, and took a tricycle going to the town proper of Imus.    

After circling around the Imus City Plaza, we paid a visit to the Our Lady of the Pillar Parish, which was founded in 1795 as a Parochial Church by the Augustinian Recollect priests. A photo eyesore here was the arch that was blocking the insignia of the parish....argh!

We then proceeded to the next Bonifacio-related site, the Imus Plaza. On December 28, 1896, the councils of Magdiwang and Magdalo met at the friar estate house in Imus to discuss the framing of the constitution and the possibilities of merging the two councils.

SITE 9: Imus Plaza (Imus, Cavite)

Since it was now around 12:30 PM, lunchtime beckons, and due to the intense heat, we needed an air-conditioned restaurant, which was uniquely-Imus. When we asked around if there were such restos around, a guy pointed to the Plaza Canteen near Imus Plaza, unfortunately, when we got there, electric fan lang pala yun “air-con” nila...toinks.

Anyway, days before this trip, I researched on good dining places in Imus and “Cafe Marcello Bar and Resto” was the recommendation, which was near the plaza...nice one. While walking along Maestro G. Tirona street going to the famous cafe, we saw several “Jay Lacson for Vice-Governor” supporters along the way and for souvenir sakes (di naman kami taga dun kasi) nakahingi kami ng tig-isang baller bands hehehe.

As we arrived at the cafe, it was closed because it was a holiday (Araw ng Kagitingan nga pala)...grrrr, so we ended up at a nearby air-conditioned Hen Lin outlet for a hearty lunch. Ang sarap pala ng Beef Wanton ng Imus (bitter...haha).

Hopping on a tricycle back to the Emilio Aguinaldo Highway, we rode a Manila-bound bus and alighted at the Divisoria-Binondo Loading-Unloading Bay. We then took a jeepney ride, passing by the Jones Bridge and visited the Binondo Church, located in Chinatown, Manila.

SITE 10: Binondo Church (Chinatown, Manila)

 
Now called the Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz, this church was where Andres Bonifacio and Gregoria De Jesus were married in March 1893.

Day ended with a pedicab ride from the church to the LRT Carriedo station.ay ended with a pedicab ride from the church to the LRT Carriedo station.ay ended with a pedicab ride from the church to the LRT Carriedo station.

 
Day 4: April 13, 2013 (Saturday)

For this day, my goal was to visit site number 11, which was the Cry of Pugad Lawin Shrine, located at the Seminary Road, Brgy. Bahay Toro, Quezon City.

SITE 11: Cry of Pugad Lawin Shrine (Bahay Toro, Quezon City)

Since Joylyn was not available during Saturdays, I tried to locate a person who could document my trip to that specific place, and alas, my brother, Koy De Castro, saved the day for me.

After we both commuted from Malabon up to the Muñoz Market area in Quezon City, we crossed to the other side, going to Congressional Avenue, and then turned right to Abra Street to ride a tricycle going to the site. It took a while before some of the drivers realized where it was.

Never ever assume that folks from a given area are masters of their area when it comes to location of a certain place, even how ultra famous it is. Heck, you might even know more than they do...honest.

Anyway, the shrine was inside the Pugad Lawin High School compound near the Iglesia ni Kristo. Luckily, for us, the school gate was open even on a non-school day, because some past tourists have been complaining that whenever they visit that site, the gates were closed due to holidays or if there were no classes on that day.

Somewhere on this shrine, over 1,000 Katipuneros gathered at the warehouse of Cabesang Melchora Aquino (Tandang Sora) on August 23, 1896 and tore their"cedulas." They carried assorted weapons: bolos, spears, daggers, a dozen small revolvers and a rifle used by Lieutenant Manuel for hunting birds.

We capped the day by hopping on a tricycle and alighted near the S&R Membership Shopping compound at Congressional Avenue, and went home via a UE Letre-bound bus.


Day 5: April 14, 2013 (Sunday)

This day was the day the entire pilgrimage ends, with five sites awaiting for my presence...and I expected it to be a long day as I march into the “annals” of history.

With Joylyn now available, we started the day’s trek going towards the Wawa Dam area,located in Rodriguez (formerly Montalban), Rizal.  

We commuted from Monumento, Caloocan to Cubao, and we rode an FX, located at the bottom of the MRT Araneta Center-Cubao Station, going to Rodriguez. We alighted the vehicle when we reached the Eastwood Residences area in Rodriguez and hired a tricycle that would ferry us to Wawa Dam for our next target site.

When we arrived at the tricycle parking area near the site, we first dropped by and registered at the Montalban Tourism Office, hoping to see if there were some brochures, pictures, or whatever information we could get before we explore the place further.

Well, so far, we saw some posters containing relevant information about the place, the future plan of the government to spruce up the place for tourists encased in glass, and a painting of the legendary giant Bernardo Carpio, who was believed to have been responsible in creating the two mountains surrounding the Wawa Dam.

By the way, the Wawa Dam is a gravity dam constructed over the Marikina River in the municipality of Rodriguez in Rizal province, Philippines. It was built in 1909 during the American colonial era to provide the water needs for Metro Manila.It used to be the only source of water for Manila until Angat Dam was built and Wawa was abandoned.

Anyway, as we trudged our way towards Wawa Dam, the great scenery never stopped, ranging from majestic mountains, huge rocks, and the monotonous sound of rushing water...photography heaven!

Reaching the Wawa Dam, you could see from afar several tourists enjoying the soothing water back massage coming from the top of the dam. You could also see a lot of balsa cottages for rent surrounding the area.

For those who are very particular with privacy when going out on a pleasure swim, this area is not for those individuals, due to the fact that the vicinity had no entrance fee, hence the multitude of well-wishers abound.

After posing at the old watchtower right on top of the dam and viewing the entire area from up there, we now proceeded to our target venue, the Pamitinan Cave, which was so nearby.

SITE 12: Pamitinan Cave (Rodriguez, Rizal)

 
From the Wawa Dam, we slightly headed back to a certain area on the trail, climbed down a bunch of rocks up to the stream level, and nervously crossed three sets of make-shift bamboo bridges in order to go to the other side, where you could seethe cave from high above.

The uphill climb was really exhausting since you would be stepping on several rocks in order to reach your final destination.

When we reached the area of the cave, you could see a breathtaking view of nature to savor. 

You could also view a certain Japanese sign on top of the cave, since these caves were also Japanese strongholds during World War II. Many Japanese died in the three-month long battle in 1945. The Japanese forces used the Pamitinan cave and Montalban mountains as stronghold headquarters during World War II.

Going back to the cave’s significance during Bonifacio’s life, inside the Pamitinan Cave, Andres Bonifacio, Emilio Jacinto, Restituto Javier, Guillermo Masangkay, Aurelio Tolentino, Faustino Mañalak, Pedro Zabala, and other members conducted secret initiation rites of the Katipunan in the cave and wrote on the walls "Viva la Independencia!"

Fortunately, for us, during our stay at the top, we saw ABS-CBN news anchor and former Vice President of the Philippines Noli 'Kabayan" De Castro being interviewed by some folks from the Rodriguez municipality, and when we requested for a photo opportunity, he gamely obliged. Seeing what we both did, the said folks followed suit (nahiya sa umpisa kasi hahaha...but not us). 

Me and Noli "Kabayan" De Castro

 
As we descended anew, we were just surprised that when we crossed the bamboo bridges,we were now moving faster...nawala yun kaba sa pag-balanse.
 
We departed the area via a tricycle going to Eastwood Residences, hopped on a Cubao-bound FX, and rode the Araneta Center-Cubao MRT going to the MRT Shaw Boulevard station.

After eating lunch at the Chowking outlet near the EDSA Central area, we rode a jeepney towards the Pasig City proper.

Our initial stop was the Immaculate Conception Cathedral or the Pasig Cathedral, which is the cathedral or seat of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Pasig, belonging to the Vicariate of the Immaculate Conception. It was established as a mission-parish by the Augustinian missionaries on July 2,1573.

After that,we asked some old street vendors along the area on where we can find the Residence of Valentin Cruz, a famous Katipunero, who resided near the church.Well, it took several blank faces from the veterans before someone successfully guided us to the right direction.

SITE 13: Valentin Cruz Residence (M.H. del Pilar Street, Pasig)

Bonifacio gathered Katipuneros for a meeting in the house of Katipunero Valentin Cruz,located near the church. "Our enemies know of our existence because of the confession to priests by three women, wives of Katipunan members; two of them are from Tondo and the third is from Sta. Ana."

From M.H. del Pilar Street, we rode a Quiapo-bound jeepney and alighted somewhere in Shaw Boulevard in Mandaluyong City, and crossed to the other side towards 7-Eleven at A. Bonifacio Street. Riding a tricycle, we proceeded to the Hagdang Bato Barangay Center, where the Tatlong Bayani Monument was located.

SITE 14: Hagdang Bato (Mandaluyong)

 
In this area, Bonifacio distributed guns procured by Genaro de los Reyes to Katipuneros. The Katipuneros had infiltrated the local police force.

As we went back to Shaw Boulevard via the same tricycle, due to fatigue from the summer heat and the excitement of finally completing the trek, we decided to visit the last two sites via taxi.

Traveling to the San Juan area, we then visited the Pinaglabanan Shrine, located along Pinaglabanan Street.

SITE 15: Pinaglabanan Shrine (San Juan)

Seige of San Juan del Monte: Chairman Laureano Gonzales informed the Supremo that the enemy had set up a small placement at the Pasig River on the Mandaluyong side fronting Santa Ana and that another cannon had been installed on the San Juan del Monte riverbank opposite the water reservoir. Bonifacio and his troops attacked the water reservoir following a failed attack the night before.

The Battle of Pinaglabanan is the symbol of the Katipunero’s baptism. This bloody encounter between the Katipuneros and the Spanish civil guards happened on August 30,1896 in the hills of San Juan. This was the first major battle fought by the Katipuneros.They moved on foot, had few rifles and guns, but were prepared to fight hand-to-hand, man-to-man. 

The last stop was at the Barangay Krus na Ligas in Quezon City, where the group of Bonifacio rested. Katipunero Genaro de los Reyes was sent to Mandaluyong to inform the chapter about the encounter with the enemy.

SITE 16: Krus na Ligas (Quezon City)

The Krus na Ligas Parish was somehow connected to the Philippine Revolution, since the place where the church stands today used to be the camp of the Katipuneros led by Andres Bonifacio. It is said that the place also served as shelter for Filipino guerillas in World War II.

Mission accomplished !!!

As I went straight home after realizing that I finally completed all 16 sites in the brochure, in comes another form of excitement, wherein I would be presenting to the NHCP the next day (yup...naka Vacation Leave ako niyan) my completed brochure.


April 15, 2013 (Monday)

Ahhh Monday...first work day of the week...NOT for me yeah!

Woke up a little bit “late” coz my normal waking time on weekdays was 4:40 AM hahaha.

Anyway, this day was the day I would be formally submitting my completed brochure to the NHCP, located at TM Kalaw Sr. Street, Ermita, Manila, but before that, I first went to SM North EDSA to have the sixteen site photos developed, and ate lunch at home.

Since the photo areas in the brochure were small, I had to cut certain parts of the pictures so I could properly paste them on the brochure, and before leaving home, I took a photo of it, since I might not be able to see it again once I submitted the item.

The completed "Byaheng Bonifacio" brochure

 
When I came down from the stairs of the U.N. Avenue-LRT station coming from the Monumento-LRT, I went to the area in front of the DOT so I could ask around where the NHCP was. It took me a long while to finally locate the place due to wrong directions coming from the folks around. You just have to walk from Wendy’s at the corner of Taft Avenue and TM Kalaw Sr. Street, going to the direction of Roxas Boulevard. It was a white building right after the National Library of the Philippines.

When I entered the main gate of the NHCP compound, I told the guard that I have an appointment with Jef Estrella of NHCP regarding the Byaheng Bonifacio project. Then, I saw two vintage cars parked near the building. They were cars, which once belonged to former Philippine Presidents Jose P. Laurel (1942 Packard 180) and Elpidio R. Quirino (1953 Chrysler Imperial).

Vintage presidential cars of Laurel and Quirino

Reaching the third floor via elevator, Mr. Estrella welcomed me to their office and had a short chit-chat regarding the pilgrimage. He got a folder and when he opened it, it contained a listing of all those who have successfully finished the entire trek. With this, I registered myself on the 17th row...proud of it!

The registration folder...number 17 baby!

He gave me a Byaheng Bonifacio baller band and told me to wait for him to contact me so that I would know when I would be receiving the token and certificate coming from the DOT and NHCP.

Before I departed from his office, I requested for a photo opportunity with him receiving my brochure for formal evidence sakes hahaha.

Formal submission to Mr. Jefry A. Estrella, NHCP Museum Technician

My Byaheng Bonifacio (Part 2 of 2)