Larga-Bista: Sagada & Banaue (Mountain Province) Part 1 of 2

During the summer season, loads of people generally flock to the Mountain Province in Luzon, most especially the so-called summer capital of the Philippines, which is Baguio, in order to leisurely enjoy the cool weather amidst the sweltering heat of some areas in the country.

Nothing beats a slow-paced environment in Baguio with much less heat, just enjoying the other side of the coin, outside of school and work life. For me, this area is for passive Mountain Province enthusiasts, but if you are the kind who would want to experience the active side of this region, it has got to be Sagada.

Since I have been to Baguio several times, I then decided that at 41, I believe it was time for me to move one notch higher and finally experience Sagada while my bones were still that competent hahaha.

May 17, 2013 (Friday)

Me and my officemates rode the employee shuttle after office at 5:00 PM and we alighted at the Trinoma Mall in Quezon City around 6:00 PM, as our rented van awaited at the external parking area.

We departed the Trinoma area at 7:00 PM and had dinner at Chowking inside the Petron NLEX station in Marilao, Bulacan.

May 18, 2013 (Saturday)

After several hours on the road, a minor “tragedy” struck. While along the dark stretches (it’s already early morning) of Kennon Road, the driver discovered that we had a flat tire, and after replacing it with a spare tire, the van headed to a Baguio City vulcanizing outlet in order to ensure a safer trip.

Departing Baguio City towards our destination, as the countdown to sunrise ticked on, you could really see the breathtaking view of the rest of the Mountain Province and feel the cool breeze as we opened our windows to fathom God’s work amidst the numerous zigzags we encountered along the way. This is the “other side” of Baguio…a must-see for every Baguio-only traveler!

At the stroke of 5:00 AM, we were now in Sagada heaven!

As the van traversed its way along Staunton Road and entered the Kiltepan Road, we hurriedly left the parked vehicle and headed towards the so-called Kiltepan Viewpoint, where a lot of tourists have already gathered as they wait for the sun to shine, since this place is where you can be able to view the best sunrise in Sagada.

Cameras began to flash at 5:35 AM as nature opened its curtains to unveil the famous Kiltepan Sunrise…simply spectacular!

The Kiltepan Sunrise

After checking-in at George Guest House, we decided to have breakfast at the well-known Sagada Lemon Pie House along South Road, but unfortunately, to our dismay, they already ran out of breakfast meals (huwaaaaat…it was just 7:00 AM), so we left and I ate Tapsilog at George Guest House instead, amounting to Php 100.00 and Mineral Water for Php 25.00.

George Guest House

You said it right, meals in Sagada are expensive!

With a “newfound energy” now flowing in all our systems, we then headed to the famous Sagada caves for a morning dose of spelunking.

Our guide, who is a member of the Sagada Environmental Guides Association, told us that our “exploration” would be the “Lumiang and Sumaguing Cave Connection” path, and it would take us around four hours to complete, so we all agreed, thinking that this path was the one most tourists experience.

At the entrance of the Lumiang Cave, you can view at least 200 coffins that have been there for 500 years. Family members or friends of the dead would pass and take turns in transporting the coffin to the cave. They believe that when the one that carries the coffin is stained with the dead’s blood, he gains good fortune and blessings in life.

Coffins @ Lumiang Cave

It was noticeable that the coffins were a little small for a full-grown adult because the dead should be forced to a fetal position in order to fit in the coffin. Since they all came from a fetal position in the womb, they too must “rest” in the same position.

While most of the coffins are piled one after another, there are also coffins tucked in the highest upper corners of the cave wall. It is unthinkable how the families were able to get the coffin all the way up there, but this signifies the families’ effort out of love for the deceased.

Some of the coffins which have carvings of a gecko (the reptile Sagadians revere for guarding their harvests) are those described as highly-respected leaders.

In addition, this cave contains the bones of old people who died of natural causes. There is a separate site for burying young people, since they were expected to have done more things in this world.

As we continued our torturous route, after finishing around 25% of the entire journey, churning our bodies from small rock openings, as well as rappelling in one juncture, we only knew then that the kind of activity that was catered to us was for the expert level…ouch!

A picture of exhaustion...huffing and puffing

Since it was totally impossible for all of us to go back due to the difficulty of the path, we had no choice but to proceed…whew!

Lumiang Cave is the alternative passageway to those people who want mental and physical fatigue going to Sumaguing Cave. Starting at the Sumaguing Cave is for beginners, while starting at the Lumiang Cave is for advanced spelunkers.

Going back to the unexpected “ordeal”, aside from the type of activity previously mentioned, we also experienced very slippery rocks, climbed a 10-foot rope, and immersed our entire bodies in super duper cold water. Yup, you could really perform the unimaginable when your own survival is at stake hahaha. Yes, if you do not follow your guide to the letter, you would really might end up as part of history, and I really do mean it.

Crossing super cold water...brrrrrrr!

"Rice Granary" rock formation

Cautious due to slippery rocks

Also, for the “delicate” types, Sagada caving is definitely not for you, since there were loads of instances where you would have to sit or hold on to bat droppings called Guano.

After almost four hours (9:33 AM to 1:23 PM), crossing from the Lumiang Cave up to the Sumaguing Cave, we quickly sat on some rocks after the cave’s exit totally drained, exhausted, and hungry. One thing’s for sure…I went through an expert level caving adventure and conquered it…yeah!

4-hour advance level spelunking...done!


A much much needed rest!

For those who want to experience the Sagada caves, wear slippers or just go barefoot due to the presence of slippery rocks along the way. Sporting trekking shoes or trekking sandals would still make your spelunking more difficult.

Before we departed from the place, we bought souvenirs from the shop just outside Sumaguing Cave, and then went straight to the “Yoghurt House” for lunch. I ordered the Java Chicken with Salad and Plain Rice (Php 190.00) and Pineapple Juice (Php 40.00), and for dessert, the best-selling Banana with Strawberry Yoghurt (Php 85.00). Love the food especially the veggies!

Yoghurt House

Java Chicken w/ Salad and Plain Rice

Banana w/ Strawberry Yoghurt

Our next stop was Echo Valley, but before seeing that place, you would first enter the Anglican Mission Compound, and be welcomed by the 1921 Centennial Bell, a landmark in Sagada’s history, which is the most photographed church bell of Sagada stamped A.D. 1921. It is located at the back of the Church of St. Mary the Virgin. You would also come across a large wheel which was placed on Sagada on October 11, 2001 as a centennial marker for 100 years of mission and ministry of the Episcopal Church in the Philippines. The wheel was previously part of a sawmill brought by the United States to Sagada. When the mill stopped operating, the wheel was discarded and left lying on the ground for almost a century. It found its second life in showbiz as a famous Sagada landmark.

1921 Centennial Bell

Centennial Marker Wheel

A few walks after passing by the Sagada Anglican Cemetery, where Christians who passed away were buried in a Christian Cemetery, there is a narrow trail leading to a cliff called the Echo Valley, a place where you could shout and the echo produces loud sounds. At this point, you could also view from a distance the most popular tourist spot in the Mountain Province, the Hanging Coffins of Sagada.

Sagada Anglican Cemetery

Echo Valley

Hanging Coffins on the right side at a distance

This is a traditional way of burying people that is still being done up to the present, but not everyone is qualified to be buried this way; among other things, one had to have been married and had grandchildren. Also, as per Igorot tradition, the only ones permitted to be placed inside the hanging coffins are those who have died from natural causes, especially due to old age.

Our next destination was a place called “Sagada Weaving”, which started way back 1968. A pioneer of weaving products in Sagada, it utilizes looms to produce quality hand-woven fabrics fashioned into functional bags and apparel. This is one of the must-see venues for souvenir shopping.

Sagada Weaving

We then proceeded to the Misty Lodge and Café for our dinner, a place famous for their burgers and pizzas, as stated in various travel blogs. In here, I ordered the Bacon Lover’s untry Fries (Php 190.00) and Lemon Grass Tea (more than Php 30.00). Great tasting burger!