Eastern Pampanga (Mexico & Candaba w/ San Fernando Side Trip)

A month ago, my friends and I went on a food trip during the Yuletide season of 2013 in selected cities in the province of Pampanga. It was a great experience visiting the culinary capital of the Philippines as well as attending the Giant Lantern Festival in the Christmas capital of the Philippines. 

Since the places we went then were on the left side portion of the North Luzon Expressway (Angeles, San Fernando, Guagua, and Bacolor) coming from Manila, we now chose to venture in the opposite direction, which would target the cities of Mexico and Candaba. 

Actually, the planned main highlight of this trip, which was done last January 18, 2014, was to visit the famous Candaba Wetlands Bird Sanctuary. 

This is the (2nd) home to a variety of migratory birds during the months of November to February. The birds are plentiful during these months. 

According to various sites, the birds usually appear minutes after sunrise and during late afternoons, so since most of my friends live far from this area, we decided to observe them in the latter option. 

To maximize our day, we first assembled in front of Shakey’s Eton Centris, located in Quezon Avenue, EDSA, Quezon City, and our rented van departed at 7:30 AM towards a side trip to San Fernando. 

Since most of my friends here have not been to this town, we decided to explore the area for historical structures as well as pasalubong centers. 

We first dropped by at a Bataan Death March stone marker, which was constructed in commemoration of the heroism and greatness of the Filipino fighters during the Japanese occupation in 1942. 

Bataan Death March stone marker

A few steps away from the marker was the historical Old San Fernando Train Station.

Old San Fernando Train Station

The San Fernando Train Station is a historical landmark in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga. Inaugurated by Governor-General Eulogio Despujol and Bernardino Nozaleda, Archbishop of Manila, on February 23, 1892. Jose P. Rizal debarked from the station on June 27, 1892 and again the next day en route to Bacolor. During the Death March in April 1942, it was the ending point of the 102-km Bataan Death March, from which Filipino and American prisoners-of-war were carted to Capas, Tarlac en route to their final destination, Camp O’Donnell. 

For its security and protection from vandals, the place was not open to the public, but fortunately, the caretaker, Mr. Fernando V. Sanchez Jr., was there to provide us some historical information about the structure as well as opening the gates so we could view what was inside the station.  

Main Entrance of the Train Station

Jumpshot time!

All you could see inside were statues depicting the Japanese Occupation, Jose Rizal sitting on a bench, and Ninoy & Cory Aquino.

Japanese Occupation Statues

 

Jose Rizal Statue

Ninoy & Cory Aquino Statues

Before departing the establishment, we all posed beside a 102-km Bataan Death March marker.

 

Bataan Death March Marker

During the Death March in April 1942, it was the ending point of the 102-km Bataan Death March, from which Filipino and American prisoners-of-war were carted to Capas, Tarlac en route to their final destination, Camp O’Donnell. 

At A. Consunji Street, you could view a row of several ancestral houses and buildings.

Lazatin House

The Lazatin House was built in 1925 by the couple Serafin Lazatin y Ocampo, president of the San Fernando Electric Light & Power Company (SFELAPCO), and Encarnacion Singian y Torres. During the Second World War, it was appropriated by the Japanese Imperial Army to serve as a residence of its 14th Army Commander, General Masaharu Homma, in San Fernando, Pampanga.

Consunji House

The Consunji House was the residence of Antonio E. Consunji, the gobernadorcillo of San Fernando in 1892. He was removed from office by the ruling Spanish government because of his attendance when Jose P. Rizal visited the town in June of that year. He became the presidente municipal of San Fernando during the Philippine Revolution from 1898-1899.

Tabacalera House

The Tabacalera House is a heritage house in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga. Built by Tabacalera owned by Don Ramon Lopez. The first floor of the house served as the office of Tabacalera. The property was owned by Simeon Ocampo. During the Japanese Occupation, it was sequestered by the Japanese Imperial Army together with other residences in San Fernando, and served as the headquarters of the Kempeitai.

Hizon-Ocampo House

The Hizon-Ocampo House is a heritage house in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga. The first residence of Anacleto Hizon and Victoria Singian de Miranda, it has inherited by their daughter Leoncia Hizon who was married to Basilio Ocampo, gobernadorcillo of San Fernando. Among their children was renowned architect Fernando H. Ocampo.

Hizon-Singian House

The Hizon-Singian House is a heritage house located in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga. Built in 1870 by the couple Don Anacleto Hizon, gobernadorcillo of San Fernando from 1877-1879 and 1886-1887, and Victoria Singian de Miranda y de Ocampo. Inherited by their daughter Victoria Hizon y Singian who was married to Godofredo Rodriguez y Yabut from Bacolor. It was occupied during the 1896 revolution by Spanish General Antonio Ruiz Serralde, appropriated by the Japanese Imperial Army to serve as a military hospital and barracks from 1943 to 1944, and served as headquarters of American General Walter Krueger of the 6th American Army during the liberation period until the end of 1945. Inherited by their son, the late Gerry Catalino Rodriguez Y Hizon, former president of the Pampanga Sugar Development Company (PASUDECO), who was married to Aurora Angeles. This bahay na bato of the Spanish colonial period was declared a Heritage House by the National Historical Institute on 27 January 2003 by virtue of Resolution No. 4, S. 2003.

Santos-Hizon House

The Santos-Hizon House is a heritage house in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga. A turn-of-the-century Victorian-style house was built by the couple Teodoro Santos, Jr. and Africa Ventura, it was later purchased by Maria Salome Hizon, a volunteer of the Red Cross during the Philippine Revolution. The property was acquired by her brother Ramon Hizon and is currently owned by the heirs of his son Augusto Hizon.

Pampanga Lodge & Restaurant

Across the street from the cathedral was the old Pampanga Hotel, now the Pampanga Lodge and Restaurant. This was actually the first site of the Pampanga High School when it first opened in 1908. It was also used as the Harvardian College, then the Pampanga Hotel and Panciteria, and now the Pampanga Lodge and Restaurant. It held the distinct honor of hosting Gen. Douglas MacArthur for one night.

For our pasalubong shopping, we dropped by Aurely’s Bakeshop, located in Mac Arthur Highway. One of their specialties was the Brazo De Mercedes.

Aurely's Bakeshop

Another place for goodies, still in San Fernando, was Nathaniel’s Bakeshop, situated in KM69 Jose Abad Santos Avenue, in Barangay Dolores. In here, the bestsellers were the Puto Pao (Puto w/ Asado filling topped w/ salted egg), Buko Pandan Salad, and the Chicken Pie.
 

Nathaniel's Bakeshop

Puto Pao: The Bestseller!

Next stop was the town of Mexico, were we visited the Sta. Monica Parish Church. It was built by Fr. Jose dela Cruz in 1665, but was destroyed during the Second World War. What remains is just the Belfry Tower of the former Augustinian-run church.

Sta. Monica Church / 17th Century Belltower / St. Benedict's Institution de Mexico

Near the 17th century Belltower of Mexico, one can also find the St. Benedict’s Institution de Mexico, an Augustinian convent that was constructed in time with the Sta. Monica Parish Church in 1665. Although Augustinian records such as the Estado of 1612 indicates that Mexico has one convent and two priests during that time. 

Mexico is also known for the San Jose Matulid chapel, which is believed to be the oldest Catholic chapel (commonly called as visitas by the locals) in Pampanga. Based on the accounts of Augustinian friars, the visitas of Masansan and Matulid were established along with the town of Nuevo Mexico (now Mexico) in April 24, 1581. Although there is no direct record of the exact date of construction of the San Jose Matulid chapel, the locals claim that it is older than the Sta. Monica Parish Church.

San Jose Matulid Chapel

With hunger creeping in, we then visited one of the most famous eateries in Pampanga, located at 174 Jose Abad Santos Street, Atching Lillian’s.
 

Atching Lillian's home

This dining place was located at the grounds of the ancestral house of Pampanga’s famous food historian and cook, Atching (Chinese ‘atsi’ for elder sister) Lilian Lising-Borromeo. In addition, her home was hailed as Mexico Pampanga’s center of culinary attraction. 

As we entered her premises at around past 12:00 noon, we were cordially greeted by the “celebrity”…a very very hospitable lady!

with Atching Lillian Borromeo

Luckily, our dining seat area was located near several items of yore, such as the various awards and certificates given to her, as well as some newspaper and magazine clippings of her appearances and similar stuff. You could also view old kitchen equipments passed on to her by ancestors, some of which dated back to a hundred years old. 

Awards & Certificates

Awards & Certificates

Various Cookie Molds from different towns

Demonstration Table

In here, the food was served buffet style, amounting to Php 500.00 per head.
 

Sisig

Pandan Juice

Lunchtime!

After we ate, she sat down with us and did some storytelling about the place, some aspects of her life, as well as bits of history on Pampanga cuisine. Such a warm and accommodating person! 

After several minutes, she demonstrated to all her customers on how to make her famous San Nicolas cookies. She is prominently known to be the best in producing these cookies. The recipe, named after the patron saint of bakers, has been passed down to the Filipino women by the Spanish friars and the Dominican sisters during the Spanish occupation.

San Nicolas Cookie Making Demonstration

When the “show” was done, she invited some of her customers to have a hands-on in making these cookies.

 Atching Lillian teaching my friends in the cookie making

Atching Lillian has made her life mission to share her family’s recipes in order to preserve and to not let time obscure her ancestors’ hard work and dedication to cooking.

Farewell Group Shot with an Icon

Departing from her home at 2:30 PM, we then proceeded to our main target destination in Candaba, the Candaba Wetlands Bird Sanctuary. 

While we were passing by the dirt road, we saw several flocks of birds from a distance, as well as the imposing presence of Mount Arayat, and parked at the resthouse of former Candaba Mayor Jerry Pelayo. 

Mount Arayat from a distance

Flocks of Birds

Based on previous travel blogs related to this area, you will be required to pay a Php 150.00 entrance fee for the maintenance of the place. Just in case you would need a guide, a payment of Php 400.00-500.00 per head would be the cost. Rooms to be rented at the resthouse would amount from Php 900.00-2500.00 per room. Also, In order to have a good view of the birds, huge bamboo walls were situated with small holes for viewing purposes to lessen the incidence of disturbance from humans. 

As we alighted from our vehicle, lo and behold, all those were gone.

Yup...the Bamboo Walls are gone!

  

Group Shot with Mount Arayat

The place now can be visited easily by the public, which means you would be seeing some trash along the grounds. You would be left on your own since there was already no guide. The resthouse has been deserted and was only guarded by a caretaker. Birds can only be seen at a long distance due to the fact that seeing humans (bamboo walls were destroyed) drives them away, that is why for those who are planning to visit this place and do bird-watching, make sure to bring a camera with a very good zooming capability.

Final Group Shot in front of the Resthouse

It was such a sad sight seeing this tourist destination “deteriorate” as compared to the past. 

Nevertheless, it was still a good place worth “discovering”. 

Explore Pinas!